A well-built sauna lasts 15+ years with very little maintenance — but "very little" is not "none." This guide covers everything you should do daily, weekly, monthly, and seasonally to keep your Søvna cabin looking and performing the way it did the day it shipped.
After every session (60 seconds)
- Wipe the benches. A clean cotton or microfiber towel removes sweat before it dries into the wood. Don't use soap or chemicals — heat and time take care of bacteria.
- Crack the door open. Leave the cabin door slightly ajar for 30–60 minutes after a session so the interior fully airs out. Trapped humidity is what causes mildew and warping.
- Empty the bucket. Don't leave water sitting in the cedar löyly bucket between sessions.
Weekly (5 minutes)
- Sweep the floor. Crumbs of stone, dust, hair — anything that fell during sessions. A soft hand brush is fine.
- Wipe the glass door. Distilled water on a microfiber. Avoid ammonia or window cleaner — vapors can react with hot wood.
- Inspect the heater area. Stones should be clean, evenly distributed, and not cracked. (See "stone care" below for traditional steam saunas.)
- Check the floor for water pooling. Pooling = ventilation issue. Crack the door longer after sessions or check the floor drain (if your model has one).
Monthly (15–30 minutes)
For all saunas
- Sand spots. If a sweat stain has set into the bench, light-sand with 220-grit in the direction of the wood grain. Wipe with a barely-damp cloth. Do not seal or finish — sauna wood breathes.
- Vacuum corners and bench undersides. Where dust lands and stays.
- Tighten visible hardware. Door hinges, handles, bench supports. Wood expands and contracts — a quick hand-tighten with the included Allen key is normal.
For traditional steam saunas (additional)
- Inspect stones. Cracked stones lose efficiency and should be replaced. Most quality stone sets last 1–3 years before needing partial replacement.
- Re-stack stones. Air must flow between them. Remove all stones, tap them clean, and re-stack — large at the bottom, smaller toward the top.
For outdoor saunas (additional)
- Clear the perimeter. Leaves, snow, branches, mulch — anything touching the cabin.
- Inspect the foundation. Cabin should still be level. If it's drifted, address before the next freeze cycle.
- Check the roof. Asphalt-shingle roofs shed normally; look for any lifted shingles or debris piles in winter.
Seasonal — Spring (1 hour)
- Deep dust. Vacuum every surface, then wipe with a barely-damp microfiber.
- Sand benches if stained. Same 220-grit, with-the-grain.
- Lubricate hinges. A drop of food-grade silicone (or dry graphite) on door hinges. Avoid petroleum-based lubricants — they off-gas in heat.
- Check and replace damaged stones.
- Wash the glass. Distilled water + microfiber. For stubborn deposits, a 1:10 white-vinegar solution, then rinse with distilled water.
Seasonal — Fall (outdoor cabins, 30 minutes)
- Clear leaves and debris from around and on top of the cabin.
- Confirm drainage — water should run off and away from the foundation, not pool against it.
- Confirm electrical seal — the conduit entry point should be sealed with weatherproof caulk where it enters the cabin.
- Inspect for any new gaps in the wood from a summer's expansion-contraction. Most don't need action — wood swells back in winter.
What about treating or sealing the wood?
Don't. Sauna interiors are unfinished by design. The wood breathes — absorbing humidity during sessions and releasing it after. Sealants, polyurethane, varnish, and wax all trap moisture and off-gas chemicals when heated. Light sanding is the only cosmetic intervention you should ever apply to interior surfaces.
Outdoor cabin exteriors are different — they ship with weather-resistant treatments and may benefit from a UV-protective oil reapplication every 2–3 years (manufacturer-specified, not DIY).
Stone care for traditional steam saunas
| Issue | Action |
|---|---|
| Cracked stone | Remove and replace. A cracked stone loses efficiency and can shatter further when water hits it. |
| Mineral build-up (white deposit) | Use distilled water for löyly. Tap water leaves mineral deposits; distilled does not. |
| Smell after long disuse | Run the stove empty for 60 minutes with the door open. The smell is residual moisture in the stones being driven off. |
| Stones look smaller after a year | Normal. Volcanic stones erode slowly. Top-up with the same stone type (peridotite or olivine — match what you have). |
What requires a professional
- Electrical issues. If the heater isn't reaching temperature, the breaker trips, or the controller behaves erratically — call an electrician. Don't DIY 240V hardware.
- Persistent water leaks. If you're seeing water inside the cabin after rain (outdoor models), photograph and contact warranty support.
- Heater unit replacement. Most heaters last 10–15 years. When the time comes, the swap is straightforward but should be done by an electrician.
Quick-reference maintenance checklist
| Frequency | What |
|---|---|
| Every session | Wipe benches, crack door for 30–60 min, empty water |
| Weekly | Sweep floor, wipe glass, check stones |
| Monthly | Light sand if needed, tighten hardware, re-stack stones |
| Spring (annual) | Deep dust, sand benches, lubricate hinges, replace cracked stones |
| Fall (outdoor only) | Clear debris, check drainage, reseal conduit if needed |
| Every 2–3 years | Reapply exterior UV oil (outdoor cabins, manufacturer-specified product) |